This little-known ingredient transforms desperately dry skin, dermatologists say

Though I occasionally write about mascara and hairspray, I'm mostly a skin-care nerd. I love learning about ingredients that plump up my ever-wizening visage and, even more, discovering clinically proven solutions to the annoying skin problems most of us deal with simply by existing in human form. So I was thrilled to spot urea popping up in an array of products over the past few months. If you have dry, irritated or callused skin, this little-known ingredient could change your life. Here's why.

"Urea is one of the components of our skin's natural moisturizing factor — a group of compounds that pull in water to the outer skin layer. It is in the same category as hyaluronic acid or amino acids, acting like a sponge to hydrate and plump the skin," says Dr. Joshua Zeichner, a board-certified dermatologist and director of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai.

But urea's benefits go beyond moisture: "Urea is both a hydrator and an exfoliator," says board-certified dermatologist Dr. Asmi Berry. "At lower concentrations, it locks in moisture and strengthens the skin barrier, making it great for dry or sensitive skin. At higher concentrations, it softens rough patches and gently exfoliates, helping with skin conditions like keratosis and psoriasis. At the same time, urea offers exfoliating benefits to soften rough skin by helping to shed dead cells that build up on the skin's surface."

Urea soothes everything from flaky, dry skin on your face to cracked heels, calluses and even those weird dry bumps you find on your arms. However, not every product containing urea will treat all skin issues; nailing the right concentration is key. Dr. Omer Ibrahim, a board-certified dermatologist at Chicago Cosmetic Surgery and Dermatology, breaks it down like this: "In lower concentrations (2-10%), urea is used for its moisturizing benefits. In concentrations between 10-30%, it's used for its exfoliating benefits as well as its moisturizing benefits. This is the ideal concentration for skin conditions like eczema, seborrheic dermatitis, keratosis pilaris, psoriasis, and any rough, dry patch like elbows, knees and ankles."

For more intense skin and nail issues, Ibrahim explains: "In concentrations between 30-50%, urea's main function is as a keratolytic agent [a topical agent that can soften and break down keratin]. This is used for nail issues and dealing with really thick, scaly areas, like extreme scale buildup due to psoriasis."

Whatever your skin issues, Zeichner says that "urea-based creams can be used anywhere on the body, and they are commonly found in many of the products you may already be using." (Check those ingredient lists!) All of the experts agreed that urea is safe for most skin types, though Berry says higher concentrations "can cause stinging or irritation, especially on sensitive or broken skin. And, if overused, it can weaken the skin barrier instead of strengthening it."

Berry, Zeichner and Ibrahim recommend the following products, including for sensitive skin. (As always, if you have complex dermatological issues, consult with a doctor before trying something new.)

If you have Amazon Prime, you'll get free shipping, of course. Not yet a member? No problem. You can sign up for your free 30-day trial here. (And by the way, those without Prime still get free shipping on orders of $35 or more.)